WORKERS Baker Pants, Trace MIL-838-D, 10296 Vat Dyed Reversed Sateen

The classic Baker Pants are back this season in a vat-dyed finish.
It fades less than sulfur-treated dyes, and the processing results are more pronounced than with sulfur-treated dyes.

WORKERS' baker was created over ten years ago by taking the dimensions of each part of an unwashed product conforming to MIL-T-838D standards. However, after years of repeated modifications, the result is that it now has a slightly different feel from the original.
Here, we went back to basics and recreated the original silhouette.
Specifically, the design was traced from a disassembled deadstock MIL-T-838D. It features wide hems, broad thighs, and a deep rise—the classic "military pants" silhouette.
Because of the extremely thin loops often seen in vintage military clothing, we prepared and supplied a special loop-stitching machine to the factory. Initially, we also made and supplied sewing machines for the chain stitching on the waistband lining, but then the factory bought their own machine... but that factory stopped making them... There have been many twists and turns, but the factory that is sewing the waistband lining now has become accustomed to it and is very skilled. They do have a very unique stitching method, though.
Back satin is a type of coarse back satin used in bakers, created by looking at the specifications of MIL-T-838D and MIL-C-10296J fabrics. It has a soft feel. The dye is sulfur-based and the color changes drastically.
The product has been washed.
The button fly is 5 buttons on the MIL-838-D and 4 buttons on the Slim Fit. The number of buttons is also adjusted to match the difference in the depth of the top.
The buttonhole placket is secured to the front facing with bar tack stitching. This is a feature seen in classic trousers. For some reason, this was also used in military trousers for many years. Certainly, a flared placket could easily catch on something and is not ideal.
Incidentally, Levi's jeans don't have facings, and a long time ago, the placket was attached by going all the way through the body of the garment. Later, even that attachment disappeared. This is one area where I feel there's a difference in the evolution of jeans and trousers.
There's a hidden stitch just below the top buttonhole, invisible from the outside. This stitch prevents fingers from getting caught in the fabric cut inside the top buttonhole, which is not visible. The original is basically,
It is made from four layers of fabric: the body, facing, outer placket, and inner placket, and the top and front edges are folded in, making it very thick.
I've tried adding shanks to the top buttons to adjust for the thickness, but even then, the fabric is still too stiff and uncomfortable to use.
Therefore, the inner facing/placket fabric was removed, and since the raw edge of the fabric would otherwise be touched by fingers, a hidden stitch was added to secure it.
I'm really proud of this design because I came up with it myself by sewing parts of it, without even looking at any vintage clothes.
Everyone, please try this.
I would be happy if, after I die, someone sees this design and thinks, "This is great because it prevents the hall from becoming too rigid. The person who came up with this idea did a good job."


S
Waist 85cm
Waist 35cm
Rise 35cm
Inseam 80cm
Hem width: 24.5 cm
Hips 100cm
M
Waist 88cm
Thigh length: 36 cm
Rise 35cm
Inseam 80cm
Hem width: 24.5 cm
Hips 104cm
L
Waist 92cm
Thigh length: 36.5 cm
Rise 36cm
Inseam 80cm
Hem width: 24.5 cm
Hips 110cm

Authentic replica clothing born from an overwhelming passion for vintage wear.
WORKERS is a menswear manufacturer based in Okayama, focusing on workwear, traditional, and military styles.
Takashi Tateno, the representative who loves the unique atmosphere of vintage clothing, has researched actual vintage clothing.
We visit the manufacturers where the products were made and even the existing buildings to research their history and documents, using them as inspiration for our product development.
All products are made in Japan, and I understand the process myself.
Production is carried out only in factories equipped with specialized equipment for each stage of the process.
It's attracting a lot of attention not only from Japan, but also from globally recognized companies like J.CREW and INVENTORY.