WORKERS / Officer Trousers, Regular Fit, Type 2 GRAIGE CHINO

Approximately 21 centimeters. A regular fit that's neither too wide nor too narrow. I realized I'd never made "regular chinos" with this silhouette and narrow welts before, so I decided to give it a try.
The sides have double-stitched rolled seams, and the front pockets have a slanted cut for easy access. There was a similar fit in the Fall/Winter 2024 collection, but that one had a separate waistband like jeans, whereas this one has a waistband that is directly attached to the body, sometimes called a "body waistband" or "waistband lining."
These are the most common type of chinos. I can sew them easily now, but there are points in the pattern that make them easier to sew, and if the waistband is gathered, it becomes difficult to sew the rest! I made adjustments to the pattern, of course, and also told the factory, "Don't erase this line! If you erase it, when we attach the waist lining in the next step, the bottom will be too short and we'll have to make a tuck!" I can't even count how many times I went to the factory. But thanks to all that effort, I can sew them perfectly now.
The point where the side seams intersect with the pockets is also tricky. If you look closely at vintage clothing, you often find that "the fabric edges aren't properly sewn in" or that they're "ripped." So, you have to "trimming the fabric in the parts that won't be visible inside," "adjusting the angle at which the pocket fits nicely," "securing the seam allowance as tightly as possible," etc. Vintage buttonholes are also often too thick, so you have to "trimming the inner fabric," "adding a hidden stitch that doesn't go all the way through to the outside because the fabric edge will be loose next to the hole if you only trim it," etc.
Looking back, I think, "We really put a lot of effort into this." Thanks to all the factories that cooperated with us. (It's a shame for the factories that dropped out midway.)


32
Waist (laid flat): 42 cm
Front rise: 32 cm
Waist 33cm
Hem width: 21 cm
Inseam 77cm
34
Waist (laid flat): 45 cm
Front rise: 33 cm
Waist 34cm
Hem width: 22 cm
Inseam 78cm

Authentic replica clothing born from an overwhelming passion for vintage wear.
WORKERS is a menswear manufacturer based in Okayama, focusing on workwear, traditional, and military styles.
Takashi Tateno, the representative who loves the unique atmosphere of vintage clothing, has researched actual vintage clothing.
We visit the manufacturers where the products were made and even the existing buildings to research their history and documents, using them as inspiration for our product development.
All products are made in Japan, and I understand the process myself.
Production is carried out only in factories equipped with specialized equipment for each stage of the process.
It's attracting a lot of attention not only from Japan, but also from globally recognized companies like J.CREW and INVENTORY.